Tomb of St Thomas

At the far end of the crypt, in a glass case, lies St Thomas. Or rather, a waxen likeness, laid out under a scarlet sheet next to a silver lance – presumably a replica of the lance that martyred him in Mylapore in AD 72, a long way from Galilee.

Lingering in the air-conditioned darkness at the back, next to a small and subdued group of tourists cooling themselves, I find myself in good company: Marco Polo, it seems, had visited the tomb in 1293, as had St Francis Xavier in 1545.

My guidebook has this account of St Thomas's martyrdom:

"Unbroken tradition maintains that while the Apostle was praying before the cross carved by him on a stone, an assassin suborned by King Mahadevin's priests and ministers crept up stealthily and pierced him with a lance from behind. Thereupon the Apostle is reported to have fallen on the stone cross and embraced it; his blood crimsoned the stone cross and the space around. Thus did he seal his Apostolate with his blood, even as the other Apostles, save St John."
- Rt Rev Herman d’Souza
In the Steps of St Thomas

Outside the crypt is a gift stand where you can find postcards for sale. Some of these bear reproductions of the Incredulity of St Thomas by Caravaggio, in which St Thomas (depicted much older than his waxwork double) has his finger in a cleanly-incised cavity of risen Lord's side. St Thomas's brow is furrowed with wonder and, perhaps, just a little hint of distaste.