Journey to Jhunjhunu

'What is your expense?' asks the young man behind the Avis counter.
'Not much,' I say, 'so let's just stick to the deal we agreed.'
'Sir, for Rs 2,000 (US$50) extra, I can give you new car and new driver!'
I raise a doubtful eyebrow, and am quickly reassured.
'Sir, all our drivers are very experienced! They know the area very well!'

Jitender (my - new? - driver) and I make good progress from Delhi to Gurgaon, slightly hesitant progress from Gurgaon to Rewari, and lose our way completely just past Rewari.
'Sir,' says Jitender crestfallenly, 'I am coming this way one year and a half. This place minimum tourist!' He is confident of the way to Jaipur - would I rather go to Jaipur instead? I insist on perservering to Jhunjhunu.
'Yes, why not,' says Jitender dejectedly.

We eventually roll across the border into Rajasthan, with the aid of numerous calls back to the Avis office and directions from kindly strangers. It is dark - sometime after eight at night. I am deposited at the rather grandly-styled Aravali Midplace Resort for a spot of dinner while Jitender disappears to pay the state tax. I am the only guest in the vast canteen. Having rebuffed the 'Chinees' menu for something with a little more local flavour, I am served a mushroom masala that tastes suspiciously like a sweet-and-sour and a plate of pease pulao that looks strangely like fried rice.

We make it to Jhunjhunu a little after half ten that night.