Overhead on the coach from Thorshavn airport:
'You can have puffin for tea tonight, if you behave.'
'Oh don't – they're vile.'
'I expect they'd taste like duck.'
More like chicken with an aftertaste of cod liver oil, I seem to recall from a meal I'd had in Iceland.
Rather disappointingly, the official Faeroese tourist brochure is adamant that 'dishes such as "whale in prune sauce" and "stuffed puffin" are still to be developed'. Clearly a gap in the market!
As expected, there is no puffin (or whale) on the menu at the Restaurant Hafnia. Instead, I have in front of me a pile of mussels – including a whopping huge specimen looking for all the world like a lurid, rubbery, orange heart. 'This is øða – the Danes call it "horse mussel",' I am informed.
Happily, it tastes a lot better than it looks or sounds!
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